Posts Tagged: trad climbing

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Rock Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Call it what you please

I think this climb is considered one of the Little Cottonwood classics, but I am not sure. Regardless, it was a really fun route. It is located in the Gate Buttress within the Schoolroom area. To get to the climb, you follow a trail through the bouldering area and out onto a large boulder field. From here you move up the boulders. You will see a gully that you could potentially hike up. This is the Green A gully. A different ... Read more

Alpine Climbing in the Wasatch | Eleventh Hour, Sundial Peak

Sundial Peak and Lake Blanche are a classic hiking destination for many people in the Salt Lake Valley. It's a short, 20 minute drive and a rewarding 2 hour hike to the lake, but the views are spectacular. It is easily in the top 3 most esthetic hiking destinations in the Wasatch. Having said that, Sundial peak is a big reason why this hike is so beautiful. You come up over the ridge and the peak dominates your view. It towers over the ... Read more

Alpine Climbing in the Wasatch: Lowe Route (5.8) | Lone Peak Cirque

We began hiking up Jacob's Ladder trail just as the sun started lighting the horizon and the stars faded into the dull grey. The low-light, black and white landscape slowly filled with color as the brightness of the day began to warm the cool fall air. Step by step, Kirk and I lugged our climbing gear, food, and water for the day upwards toward Lone Peak Cirque. The recent cold front kept things cool for the hike, but it worried us a little that it might ... Read more

Climbing Sweet Jane in Little Cottonwood

Sweet Jane sits in the same area as Beckey's Wall and Satan's Corner so it is hard to compare with these two super classic climbs, but I still found it to be an enjoyable two pitches. The route starts by scrambling to the actual base of the climb up a 15 foot easy 5th class crack system. You walk up a gully and left along a ledge to stand about 15 feet below a set of chains. Then you scramble up another ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Squamish, British Columbia: Octupus Garden in the Shade

This route was pretty good! As I mention in my previous Squamish post, the rating felt off. It is rated a 5.8 in the guide book and 5.8 on Mountain Project and I am ok with that rating, because the climbing felt about 5.8. However, the gear placements are what felt weird to me. For a route to be consider a "Top 100 Classic" like this one, I feel like it needs to have some outstanding features: sustained, high quality climbing, great gear, maybe ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Stiffler’s Mom (Pitches One – Three)

This route gets overshadowed because it is right next to PentaPitch and Sasquatch which are both awesome climbs. However, I think "Stiffler's Mom" is a really great climb. We only did pitches one through three because the route is 12 pitches and 5.11a... I normally wouldn't write about a route unless I lead it all, but the first three pitches are awesome and they are worth mentioning by themselves. The consensus on the pitches are a little ambiguous though... Pitch one is super cool. ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Squeeze my Lemon

"Squeeze my Lemon" is one of my favorite climbs in Little Cottonwood. My friends and I just led it again this year, so I thought I'd add it to the blog. I don't know if it is technically considered a classic climb, but it has 3 stars and personally, I think it is the best 5.7 in the canyon. I'll tell you why... The route is sustained crack climbing, which is rare for a 5.7 in Little. It changes sizes a lot. ... Read more

Classic Climbing City of Rocks, Idaho: Wheat Thin

Because it has been so rainy in Salt Lake City the last few weeks, Kirk and I were able to sneak away to the City of Rocks on Saturday to take advantage of a day of clear weather. We got on three routes each. At the city, you have to build anchors at the top of each route and your partner must follow you up. This is great practice for building anchors, but is sort of slow if both partners want to lead. ... Read more

Indian Creek: 2 Weekends, 3 Classic Classic Climbs and a Desert Tower

Spring is here in Utah and that has meant a few weekend trips to Moab, Indian Creek, and Castle Valley. On the first trip to Indian Creek we jumped on "Jolly Rancher," a 5.10, 140ft hand crack. I have never led in Indian Creek before, I had never led a 5.10 before, and I had never lead a pitch that was 140ft before. Needless to say, this climb was going to be a bit over my head. Read more

Classic Climbing and Splitboarding in Little Cottonwood: Winter on the South Ridge and South Face of Mount Superior

This has to be one of the most intense all-around adventures I have ever done, and it happened in my own backyard of Little Cottonwood Canyon. I got the crazy idea to climb a classic winter alpine route and ski a classic winter descent. Here's how it went down: We got to the base of the ridge around 6am. We began up the ridge, ice axes in hand, climbing gear and snowboards on our backs. The south ridge of Mount Superior is an ... Read more
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