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Rock Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Call it what you please

I think this climb is considered one of the Little Cottonwood classics, but I am not sure. Regardless, it was a really fun route. It is located in the Gate Buttress within the Schoolroom area. To get to the climb, you follow a trail through the bouldering area and out onto a large boulder field. From here you move up the boulders. You will see a gully that you could potentially hike up. This is the Green A gully. A different ... Read more

Alpine Climbing in the Wasatch | Eleventh Hour, Sundial Peak

Sundial Peak and Lake Blanche are a classic hiking destination for many people in the Salt Lake Valley. It's a short, 20 minute drive and a rewarding 2 hour hike to the lake, but the views are spectacular. It is easily in the top 3 most esthetic hiking destinations in the Wasatch. Having said that, Sundial peak is a big reason why this hike is so beautiful. You come up over the ridge and the peak dominates your view. It towers over the ... Read more

Climbing Brain Full of Spiders in Rock Canyon

Brain Full of Spiders is a pretty fun, 4 pitch route just west of Provo, Utah in Rock Canyon. The route is bolted, rated 5.9+ and a perfect combination of difficulty for my girlfriend Kim and I. She had never led anything on a multipitch route and the upper pitches are easier with a fair amount of exposure still. While the rock quality in Rock Canyon is somewhat poor, the adventure climbing there is super fun. To get to the climb you ... Read more

Alpine Climbing in the Wasatch: Lowe Route (5.8) | Lone Peak Cirque

We began hiking up Jacob's Ladder trail just as the sun started lighting the horizon and the stars faded into the dull grey. The low-light, black and white landscape slowly filled with color as the brightness of the day began to warm the cool fall air. Step by step, Kirk and I lugged our climbing gear, food, and water for the day upwards toward Lone Peak Cirque. The recent cold front kept things cool for the hike, but it worried us a little that it might ... Read more

Climbing Sweet Jane in Little Cottonwood

Sweet Jane sits in the same area as Beckey's Wall and Satan's Corner so it is hard to compare with these two super classic climbs, but I still found it to be an enjoyable two pitches. The route starts by scrambling to the actual base of the climb up a 15 foot easy 5th class crack system. You walk up a gully and left along a ledge to stand about 15 feet below a set of chains. Then you scramble up another ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Squamish, British Columbia: Octupus Garden in the Shade

This route was pretty good! As I mention in my previous Squamish post, the rating felt off. It is rated a 5.8 in the guide book and 5.8 on Mountain Project and I am ok with that rating, because the climbing felt about 5.8. However, the gear placements are what felt weird to me. For a route to be consider a "Top 100 Classic" like this one, I feel like it needs to have some outstanding features: sustained, high quality climbing, great gear, maybe ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Squeeze my Lemon

"Squeeze my Lemon" is one of my favorite climbs in Little Cottonwood. My friends and I just led it again this year, so I thought I'd add it to the blog. I don't know if it is technically considered a classic climb, but it has 3 stars and personally, I think it is the best 5.7 in the canyon. I'll tell you why... The route is sustained crack climbing, which is rare for a 5.7 in Little. It changes sizes a lot. ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Sasquatch

If you mention the route "Sasquatch" to the trad climbing community around Salt Lake City, you might here comments like this: "The best finger crack in Little Cottonwood," or "the most aesthetic 5.9 in Little Cottonwood." This route is fantastic. I top roped it following my friend, Jesse, last summer when I was first starting to lead on gear and it blew my mind. I thought, after feeling extremely insecure the entire climb, that I would never, ever be able to lead a route ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: The Coffin

I have made it a policy for myself that I cannot write about a climb unless I lead it. So, I am happy to finally get to post about an amazing classic climb in Little Cottonwood called "The Coffin." Anyone that climbs trad in the Salt Lake area knows or has at least heard of this route. It is rated 5.9 and in Little Cottonwood, the grading is stout. The rock face is the shape of a coffin (hence the name) and ... Read more

Classic Climbing City of Rocks, Idaho: Wheat Thin

Because it has been so rainy in Salt Lake City the last few weeks, Kirk and I were able to sneak away to the City of Rocks on Saturday to take advantage of a day of clear weather. We got on three routes each. At the city, you have to build anchors at the top of each route and your partner must follow you up. This is great practice for building anchors, but is sort of slow if both partners want to lead. ... Read more
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