Trad Climbing

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Rock Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Call it what you please

I think this climb is considered one of the Little Cottonwood classics, but I am not sure. Regardless, it was a really fun route. It is located in the Gate Buttress within the Schoolroom area. To get to the climb, you follow a trail through the bouldering area and out onto a large boulder field. From here you move up the boulders. You will see a gully that you could potentially hike up. This is the Green A gully. A different ... Read more

Rock Climbing without a Knife, Are you Crazy?

Rock Climbing without a Knife, Are you Crazy? Seriously, think about it. You are stuck 2000 feet up a blank face and you are dangling from the rope. Maybe you've been impaled by a large tree branch and you can't keep moving, but if you just keep hanging there, the weight of your body will blow the three piece anchor your partner built and you'll both die. In this situation, having a high quality rock climbing knife will allow you to ... Read more

Alpine Climbing in the Wasatch | Eleventh Hour, Sundial Peak

Sundial Peak and Lake Blanche are a classic hiking destination for many people in the Salt Lake Valley. It's a short, 20 minute drive and a rewarding 2 hour hike to the lake, but the views are spectacular. It is easily in the top 3 most esthetic hiking destinations in the Wasatch. Having said that, Sundial peak is a big reason why this hike is so beautiful. You come up over the ridge and the peak dominates your view. It towers over the ... Read more

Climbing Brain Full of Spiders in Rock Canyon

Brain Full of Spiders is a pretty fun, 4 pitch route just west of Provo, Utah in Rock Canyon. The route is bolted, rated 5.9+ and a perfect combination of difficulty for my girlfriend Kim and I. She had never led anything on a multipitch route and the upper pitches are easier with a fair amount of exposure still. While the rock quality in Rock Canyon is somewhat poor, the adventure climbing there is super fun. To get to the climb you ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: Satan’s Corner

I love this route. I think it is my favorite 5.8 in little cottonwood. It is stiff and scary. The route starts on a steep, sustained face for about 50 feet. It is every size. Perfect hands to fist. Fingers and face climbing. It as a good variety. You pull over the face onto a big ledge were you can build an anchor and do the route as two pitches to avoid rope drag. Or you can keep climbing up a fist sized ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Little Cottonwood: After the Fall

This climb was a somewhat intimidating onsite for me. It's long and 5.9. Usually, I try not to onsite 5.9 in little cottonwood because I still feel new enough to trad climbing that I don't want to get myself in over my head too much, but I decided to give it a try anyways. I'm glad I went for it, but I didn't climb it as well as I would have liked and this is a route that I definitely need to get back ... Read more

Climbing Sweet Jane in Little Cottonwood

Sweet Jane sits in the same area as Beckey's Wall and Satan's Corner so it is hard to compare with these two super classic climbs, but I still found it to be an enjoyable two pitches. The route starts by scrambling to the actual base of the climb up a 15 foot easy 5th class crack system. You walk up a gully and left along a ledge to stand about 15 feet below a set of chains. Then you scramble up another ... Read more

Classic Climbing in the Tetons: CMC Route on Mount Moran

I find it interesting how intense the alpine world is. I have spent the last few years gradually climbing harder and harder mountains. It never ceases to amaze me how insignificant I feel when I commit to a big climb. The CMC Route on Mount Moran is an Alpine grade II and the face is 1000 feet of 5.5 climbing. My friend Kirk and I got our permits at the rangers station a few hours earlier, but we were still in the ... Read more

Classic Climbing in Squamish, British Columbia: Octupus Garden in the Shade

This route was pretty good! As I mention in my previous Squamish post, the rating felt off. It is rated a 5.8 in the guide book and 5.8 on Mountain Project and I am ok with that rating, because the climbing felt about 5.8. However, the gear placements are what felt weird to me. For a route to be consider a "Top 100 Classic" like this one, I feel like it needs to have some outstanding features: sustained, high quality climbing, great gear, maybe ... Read more

Climbing ‘Bilbo Baggins’ in Squamish, British Columbia

To start off, I'd like to comment on the fact that the Squamish Guide Book rates the climbs differently than Mountain Project does. It's a little confusing because the grades that I felt were a bit soft were rated harder and the ones I thought were hard were graded easier... Anyways, Bilbo Baggins is a pretty awesome splitter on the far right of the Burgers and Fries area of the Smoke Bluffs in Squamish. It is rated 5.8 in the guide book, ... Read more
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